The Enduring Allure of Fragrance: From Pre-Buddhist to Buddhist Traditions

In the rich tapestry of ancient Indian culture, the mastery of various arts was paramount. During the pre-Buddhist period, individuals were trained in sixty-four arts, encompassing skills that ranged from music and dance to the intricate craft of Gandhayukti, or the art of blending perfumes. This diverse skill set reflects the cultural sophistication of the time and highlights the significance of fragrance in social and religious contexts.

Gandhayukti: The Art of Blending Perfumes

Gandhayukti is an ancient practice that emphasizes the careful selection and blending of aromatic substances to create perfumes. This art was not merely a frivolous endeavor; it held cultural and spiritual significance. The scents crafted through Gandhayukti were used in various rituals, personal adornment, and social gatherings, playing a vital role in enhancing experiences and expressing individual identities.

The Lalitavistara, a significant Buddhist text, notes that the young Bodhisattva excelled in the sixty-four arts, including Gandhayukti. This acknowledgment of the Bodhisattva's mastery serves as a testament to the importance of fragrance and the arts in the spiritual and cultural landscape of ancient India. The ability to blend perfumes was seen as a valuable skill, enriching the sensory experiences of life.

Buddhist Restrictions on Fragrance

With the emergence of Buddhism, certain practices regarding fragrance and personal adornment shifted. The Five Sikkhapadas from the Khuddaka Pada outline specific restrictions for Buddhist monks, emphasizing simplicity and detachment. Among these prohibitions is the use of pomade (perfume oil) and perfumes, as well as anointing the body. This shift reflects a broader philosophical stance within Buddhism that encourages mindfulness and moderation, urging practitioners to focus on inner purity rather than external adornment.

However, this does not imply a complete rejection of fragrance. In the Brahmajala Sutta, another important Pali text, procedures for beautification and anointing are detailed, illustrating a nuanced view of fragrance within Buddhist practice. The text describes rituals for bedecking and dressing that include:

• Uccaadana: The act of anointing with perfumes, which was traditionally a means of enhancing one's presence and significance in social interactions.
• Maalaa Vilepana: Applying pomade and wearing flower garlands, a practice that signifies reverence and beauty.
• Mukhacunaka: Applying fragrant talcum powder to the face, which not only adds to personal cleanliness but also serves to evoke pleasantness and freshness.

Fragrance as a Cultural Symbol

The contrasting views on fragrance between pre-Buddhist and Buddhist traditions highlight a significant cultural evolution. While Gandhayukti was celebrated and practiced widely, Buddhism introduced a more ascetic approach, emphasizing inner qualities over external appearances. Nevertheless, the acknowledgment of fragrance in Buddhist texts suggests that while the personal use of strong perfumes may have been discouraged, the cultural practices surrounding fragrance remained an important aspect of social life.

In conclusion, the exploration of Gandhayukti and its evolution in Buddhist tradition reveals the complex interplay between culture, spirituality, and personal expression. Fragrance, as both an art form and a social practice, served as a means of connection to the divine, self-expression, and cultural identity in ancient India. Understanding these nuances enriches our appreciation for the role of scent in historical contexts and its lasting impact on contemporary practices.